원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 moved to 7900m 26 April.

Made C2 low because good place on snow and dirt know what campsite like on rock above. 2 nights in C2; 2nd day up to 7800m to acclimatize and see area, then down to ABC. 25th to C1; 26th to C2 and moved it to 8900m, but did not occupy it because strong wind and back to ABC. 28th again up from ABC to C1. 29th to C2 and in evening 10:00 pm NST both members started for top; 8:00 am on 30th reached 8500m and 3:30 pm on top (perhaps 1 hour after Brice's Sherpas were on top). No other summiters this day. Russell Brice said he saw Kazakhstanis on top from video pix by his Sherpas, had fixed rope to top with snow packet there; stayed 30-45 minutes on top, then down. Stopped at 8300m in empty Brice tent and stayed there from 8:00 pm 30th to 9:00 am 1 May; to C2 on 1 May and on down to ABC.

[On descent] Pivtsov from 7700m used oxygen given by Arun Treks Sherpa with South African expedition because of pulmonary edema; stopped using oxygen at 6700m. Reached ABC 7:00 pm 1 May very tired but "very happy." Left 20m+ rope at summit because didn't use it; when he had started for top didn't know Sherpas would have fixed route to top.

Pivtsov oxygen bottle partly empty: South Africans Sherpa Namgye had been using it. On top was Brice blue oxygen bottle and framed picture of Dalai Lama with white kata around it.