원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on NE Ridge.

From C3 for top 1 May 5:00 am but very slow ascent because of deep snow (not bad wind). Summit party was Lutokhin, Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev. Luktokhin turned back at 7800m, very tired and went to C3. Samoilov, Sharipova, Shutov and Sinev reached the top at 7:00 pm; the first 2 returned to C3 at 11:00 pm, the other 2 at 10:00 pm.

On 2nd May, Kozlovsky left C3 for the top at 5:15 am, reached 7500m and returned to C3, very tired. Urubko reached summit on 2 May.

Surmonin got to 7100m 30 April, too tired to go higher and he was joined by Korshunov. Surmonin left team on 3 May.


Kazakstani-Russian Dhaulagiri led by Denis Urubko - Spring 2007

Urubko set out to make a speed ascent of Dhaulagiri I from BC at 9:30 pm on 30 April but his ascent "was broken" when at 7300m at about 5:00 am on 1 May he found his member Boris Korshunov sitting there unprotected, close to a small rock cliff.

Urubko found some rope and secured Korshunov in a safe place. Korshunov was shivering he so cold; Urubko massaged him to get him warm and gave him warm drinking water from a bottle under his jacket. Then he put a harness on Korshunov and slowly they descended, Korshunov slightly ahead with a short rope between them, from 7300m to 7100m down a steep ice slope. At 7100m at 9:00 am, Korshunov had warmed up and able to move normally; he was able to go by himself to C2 (6700m) and join Sergei Surmonin there.

Urubko then resumed his ascent. He reached C3 at 10:00 am and stayed there as he was tired. On 2 May at 5:15 am he started up again and reached the summit at 9:45 am, spent an hour on the summit on a warm, windless morning, then down to C3 at 11:50 am and finally to BC at 6:00 pm. He went from BC to summit to BC in 45 hours.

In their traverse away form the NE Ridge, Urubko's team used a shorter and more direct line to the summit, did not go up the small couloir to a small col, the way that Inaki Ochoa made the route on 26 April and was followed by Italians and Spaniards on the 29th.