Amical Alpin Cho Oyu Expedition 2007
Cho Oyu · 2007 · 봄 (1) · Germany
원정 개요
9 members and 3 Sherpas from C3 for top 1:30-2:15 am (NST) in calm windless night; 2 Sherpas turned back at Yellow Band (7700m) because too cold; 4 members on top: Waertl at 7:05 am with excellent view of Everest; other 3 at 10:45 am in fog (Waerthl knows they reached top from their pix of area). Other Sherpa did not leave C3.
Amical Cho Oyu led by Michael Waerthl - Spring 2007
On summit day, weather was clear when Waerthl reached the summit, but at about 10:00 am (NST) it closed in with fog/clouds covering the summit plateau. So when Bogenschuetz, Huber and Touboul got to the top at 10:45 am, they had no view. Waerthl descended to C2 at 1:00 pm. Huber returned to C3 at 1:00 pm, while Bogenschuetz and Touboul arrived at C3 at 3:00 pm and 3:30 pm, respectively. Waerthl turned around at 1:00 pm those who were still on their way up because he was afraid they would get lost in the fog.
Members in the 4 May summit party who did not get to the top:
1. Frange reached 8100m+, but not feeling well and down to C2 at 2:00 pm.
2. Janssen was too slow, reached only 7800-7900m, down to C3 at 11:00 am.
3. Kirchner reached 8100m+, but too late, down to C3 at 5:30 pm.
4. Schaaf also reached 8100m+, but too late, down to C3 at 5:30 pm. Developed cerebral edema during descent to C3 but insisted he was all right and refused to give himself an injection. Had to be helped to C2 on 5th by two Sherpas, but got better soon.
5. Schleim reached 8100-8150m, but too late for top and down to C3 at 5:30 pm.
Members not in the summit party:
1. Bettinelli spent one night during acclimatization period in C2, but it was a very windy night and he did not return to C2.
2. Rost got to between C1 and C2 only; was not very strong.
3. Winkler reached only C1, was not really fit, left team on 26 April.
4. Zachmann also got to between C1 and C2, then abandoned his climb: it was not something he could actually manage.
5. Alois Zauner reached ABC only, then developed an incipient case of cerebral edema and left team on 19 April.
6. Mario Zauner to ABC only, left with his brother Alois.
Sherpas to Yellow Band:
Mingma Dorje, 20/7/63, scaled Cho Oyu?
Tshering Tashi, 7/12/85, Khumjung, Everest X2
- 내부 원정 ID5596
- 원본 EXPIDCHOY07106
- 대장Michael Waerthl
- 루트 (Route)NW side
- 최고 도달고도8188m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 15명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael Waerthl | Germany | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Fabrice Bettinelli | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Alois Bogenschuetz | Germany | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Johannes Frange | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Albert Huber | Austria | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Edgar Janssen | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Josef Kirchner | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Egon Rost | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Erich Eberhard Schaaf | Germany | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Kurt Schleim | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Nicolas Touboul | France | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Gerhard Alfons (Geri) Winkler | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Lutz Zachmann | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Alois Zauner | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |
| Mario Zauner | Austria | Climber | - | - | - |