원정 개요

This team the first to arrive at BC. 29 March summit push from ABC by Kopold and Hudak to C2. 30th Hudak not feeling well and down to ABC while Kopold up to top alone. Kopold left C2 midnight Chinese time and on top 5:00 am (2:45 am NST) and saw summit of Everest above clouds; had gone slightly to left when reached summit plateau and then direct to highest point where there were flags, empty oxygen bottles, etc. Snow conditions good, not very deep and could move quickly. Down to ABC same day, arrived 5:00-6:00 pm.

Dutka made summit bid from C1 on 2 April to C2; 3 April to 8100m on snowslope below summit plateau then turned back because of very strong cold wind.

Hudak on 3rd April up from BC to C1 to C2, rested, then from C2 lost way, went up direct to 8000m instead of normal route to left (had found some old fixed ropes). At 8000m at 9:00 pm, getting dark and down to C2. 4th April to ABC and climb finished.

Went to Xixabangma: wanted to make new route on South Face but weather reports of unstable weather and were only 3 climbers with different climbing tempos, so repeated Doug Scott (British) route on South Face. Arriveed BC on 14 April at 5300m. Alpine style climb by Kopold and Hudak. 2 bivs above BC at 6400m on 22 April and 7200m on 23 April. 24th Kopold on top at about 4:00 pm: when he was 50m below top, looked back and saw Hudak was descending and this last he was seen: at 7600m found Hudak's ice axe and marks in snow indicated he fell at this steep area, unable to stop himself without ice axe. No idea where his body is.