원정 개요

BC at Bulgarian BC north of Machhapuchhare BC, just south of Tent Peak.

After 21 Sept strong wind and fixed ropes in couloir cut twice by falling ice or stone in 55-60 degree couloir. From C1 to C2 very complicated mixed snow, ice and rock. Between C1 and C3 very hard rock. Had permit for Polish route but changed because of falling stone and ice and leads to middle summit. Even glacier complicated with many stones requiring zizag route towards ABC. Fixed total 3000m.

1st summit party Denamur and Stepien left C3 6:00 am 20 Oct; Stepien feet beginning to freeze at 7500m and returned to C2; Denamur continued to summit alone and without walkie-talkie; his footprints seen by Wielicki of other Polish expedition when he reached summit late morning of 21st, thus Denamur reached summit during night or early 21st morning and then footprints showed descent of North Face (he had taken plenty of food, gas, feather jacket and biv sack without previous notice). When expedition left BC 20-30 Oct he had not reappeared. No more in summit attempts because food supplies finished. Had planned to stay at BC only till 20th or latest 23rd. Did not sent anyone to look for Denamur, but if no word of him by 1st Nov may send helicopter for rescue/search. There are other teams on North Face.


Wiliecki

Denamur and Stepien were sent up to clear their C2 (C3 was Wielicki) but went on up to C3 without permission of Wielicki. There was no contact with them for 3 days from 18th morning, when they radioed from C2 they didn't know where they were going today; they actually went to C3 that afternoon/evening spent 19th fixing up C3, 19th night started for top but after 1-2 hours returned to C3 because cold. 20th Stepien started up at midday, Lowas after Denamur and never saw Denamur that day; got dark, Stepien lost the trail above so made biv at 7700m, hoped to resume ascent next day but in morning of 21st (had frosbitten toes) and met in his descent at 9:00 am by Wielicki; he was very strong but mentally confused. (Wielicki talked with him in detail). Denamur did not take extra provisions, according to Stepien. Expedition knew Denamur missing on 21st from Wielicki but sent no search to north side.

Senatorov, USSR South Face leader on 3 Nov: Jarosz left member with frostbitten toes behind when Jarosz left BC. Member was cared for Senatorov and Wielicki teams.

Cherny, USSR North Face summiter on 24 Oct: He and Arsentiev saw no trace whatsoever of Denamur - no new ice axe, no rucksack, no body, nothing. Any tracks would be blown away in 2-3 hours by wind. 20th and 21st very clear days and leader and Arsentiev's US girl friend watched with binoculars for movement high on mountain and saw nothing.

Arsentiev on 15 Nov: On 23 Oct he saw 2 people on summit. They did not descend north side. On 20 Oct at summit he found 2 Polish coins on the snow and brought them back; they had been left there on 23rd, he has been told by Wielicki. He saw nothing else anywhere on North Face except 2 old ice axes, which he and Cherny used because their own had been lost. There was a huge fall of ice above C4 on 23rd.

Slava Sveticic, Yugoslav on West Face on 15 Nov: On 3 Nov found raised footprints on snow from bottom of a couloir at about 7900m during his traverse eastwards to normal route, which he descended. They were in an area where no climbers go.


Statement signed by Jaros about 5 Nov 1991
(in Ministry of Tourism files)

The 20 Oct 91 about 6 H in the morning Gabriel Denamur from Belgium started from C2 South Face (7300m) climbing solo on the top. He took no tent, sleeping bag, stove gas and did not came back to the C3.

Next day 21 Oct 91 started from C3 two members from another expedition from Poland led by Krzysztof Wielicki saw fresh foot marks of Gabriel Denamur which had crossed summit and gone towards north side.

The 20 Oct 91 in the north side two Russian members Cherny and Glushkovski staying in C3 (6450m). Next day 21.10 they continued climbing in alpine style C4 6900m, C5 (7300m) 22.10 bivouac 23.10 (7900m) visibility was very good, fine weather. 24.10 reached on the top about 10 H and nothing saw.

In C1 (5000m) since the 20.10-25.10 Sergei Arsentiev leader of Russian team waiting and looking by binoculars north side summit and climber team and nothing saw also.

From south side reaching on the top since then Gabriel reached on the top until 23.10.91 another members and nothing saw also.

Since then we haven't news from Gabriel Denamur. Gabi missing 20.10.91