원정 개요

BC at base of NE Spur near point 5057m on west side of moraine
ABC at Col camp above 1st buttress.

Summit push from BC on 12 April and bived at 5900m on spur at junction of this spur and North Ridge. 13th reached 6100m biv, 14th to 6150m (not great progress because snowy weather and ahead of schedule and good place to biv). 15th to 6250m, 16th to 6350m - only 100m that day because of technical difficulty and because would fix a pitch using 60m ropes, then descend to bring up backpack to site of next biv and bring up ropes to repeat pattern next day. 17th at 6350m because at crux of route and spent time putting up ropes in mixed terrain which was very difficult. 18th to 6450m, 6500m on 19th, and 20th to 6590m, 6700 on 21st and 22nd slept on summit (4:00 pm on top) waiting for daylight to see [SW Ridge] route they hadn't climbed and which no one this season had come up, so had to fix own ropes and use double rappels in descent [of SW Ridge]. 23rd to slightly below C3 and 24th to C2, then 25th to Pangboche. Slow descent because bad visibility, feeling their way. Missed BC site which couldn't be seen in clouds.

HAFE = "High Altitude Flatus Explusion"