원정 개요

BC at north side of river in house of Tengpo village
High point at main headwall of North Face.

Center of North Face is North Pillar made up of series of steep rockwalls and led gear. Route not attempted by anyone before. 11th Oct Furneaux and Maddaloni started up pillar from base of pillar 4800m and back to BC after fixing rope to 5000m. 12th to 5100m again fixing rope on the route and again to BC. 13th moved gear up to 5150m at snow slope and pitched tent. 14th climbed 150m; 15th another 150m to 5450m. On 16th and made C2 at 5350m at only spot for a camp possible (moved C1's tent up to here, so really C1 was a biv). 17th had been intermittent snow slopes and rock walls but snow only rock up 70m only; made biv at 5600m below main headwall. Weather had been down [???] every day till 4:00 pm when clouds moved in. 18th moved up 60m where snow storm came in at 3:00 pm, spindrift, avalanching so down to last biv site at 5600m. 19th day was clear in am, climbed 30 minutes and storm again, again to 5600m. 20th overcast in morning so rapelled down to BC and climb over. Next 4 days it snowed.

Furneaux and Maddaloni like to return to this route which will go; hard climb but satisfying; "hardest route we've have ever put up" says Furneaux.

Janet Bride stayed in BC with got mild altitude sickness; Paul Bride went up to 5000m, got the photographs he wanted and he and wife left expedition on 13 Oct.