원정 개요

French Tashi Kang/Thapa Peak team (Autumn 2006) - 19 Nov 2006

When team approached Hidden Valley at the beginning of November, they were told by groups coming from that area that the snow was very deep there.

On 6 Nov they made base camp at 4879m east of Dhampas Pass. Next day Bres, who had been suffering for days from a respiratory problem and did not seem motivated to do any climbing here, left for home. They had decided not to attempt to enter the Valley to reach Tashi Kang because their porters were not equipped for deep snow. The base camp would be the base for an attempt on Thapa Peak (aka Dhampus Peak).

On the same day (the 7th), Flaceliere, now the only member, and Prem Bahadur Gurung, plus the cook, went for a reconnaissance of the site fo their next camp, which Flaceliere called "elevation camp." They found the place east of Dhampus Pass at 5035m, two hours or four kms away from base, and then returned to base camp.

On the 8th Flaceliere, Prem Bahadur Gurung and the cook occupied ABC (elevation camp), and on the 9th Flaceliere and Gurung left camp at 2:45 am. For the summit vias the west-southwest ridge, which was covered with snow at the start but ended in very unstable rock. It led to the first summit (6034m) and onto the main summit (6054m plus or minus ten meters, according to meters-wide pond or pool of ice-covered water. They were on the main summit at 9:15 am and back in ABC/elevation camp at 12:30 pm; they left it immediately and were in base camp at 3:30 pm. By this time Gurung had a bad headache.

On the 10th they trekked to Marpha on the Kali Gandaki River.

"Sherpa:"
Prem Bahadur Gurung, 16/12/78 (1/9/2035), Namarku, Ilam Pokhari vdc,
Lamjung district, no 8000ers or 7000ers


Taken from photocopies of Flaceliere's daily notes.

The approach along Kali Gandaki river together with trekking group.
Oct 31st Beni - Mahabhir
Wed Nov 1 Mahabhir - Kopchepani
Thurs Nov 2 Kopchepani 1650m
Kothethanti 2540m
Friday 3 Nov 1/2 days
Kothethanti
Tukuche 2600m

Francois still sick. Decision made to go to Marpha 1/2 day. All due to snowfalls.

Sat 4 Nov 1/2 day
Tukuche - Chimang - Chhairo - Marpha
The two groups summit and trek.

The approach to CB.
Sun 5 Nov
08:00 Marpha 2600m
14:20 Alubari 3890m

Mon 6 Nov
07:30 Alubari 3890m
12:45 camp 4879m installed on the first snow to get water

Tuesday 7 Nov
Francois still sick. Decision made to get him down. Also to cancel Tashi Kang due to the very bad condition of the snow in the Hidden Valley.
This will be our base camp for the Dampus Peak or Thapa Peak

08:10 - Reconnaissance for establishing an elevation camp before or after Dhampus pass - done with Bernard, Prem and Norbu (China) Cook.
10:55 - arrived before Dhampus Pass
13:40 - Back to BC, snow

Wed 8 Nov
09:10 Base camp
11:45 Elevation Camp 5035m
BC-EC = 4 Km horizontal

The summit day
Thu 9 Nov
02:45 left Elevation Camp at 5035.
Follow route medium deep snow, part of rock climbing on very unstable orange rocks -
arrived at a first summit, but this is not the true one - descent a tenth of iced piece of water.

09:15 reached the summit
Dhampus/Thapa 6054m
First summit 6034m

12:30 - arrived at Elevation Camp.
15:30 - arrived at base camp.

Friday 10 Nov
08:45 departed BC at 4875m
13:00 arrived Marpha at 2700m