원정 개요

BC same as other Polish expedition
C2 same as Jarosz (and Chamoux).

This team fixed all ropes for both team except (Perrina from other Polish team, who worked all the time with this team - was the only strong climber except Denamur from other team). Very difficult sections with overhangs at 7200-7300m. Great respect for Bonington team, whose route followed to C1, then variations of Chamoux and their own. Problem of hard ice and falling stones. 20th Oct early night Wielicki to C2, reached C3 where Stefko was already. Stefko left C3 at 4:30 am, 21st and Wielicki at 6:00 am and went on top at 11:30 am and Stefko at 11:50 am, having met other team's member in his descent from unsuccessful attempt. Left top 12:00 and returned to C1 in full moonlight.

2nd summit party (who did not really climb together) left camp 22nd early morning (Pawlowski 4:00 am, Schleypen at 3:00 am and Wanda at 6:00 am); [after summiting] Pawlowski to C2, Schleypen stopped above C3 and Wanda Rutkiewicz made biv at 7700m on summit ridge.

23rd Valez, Baeyens and Sprutta to top also from C3.