원정 개요

BC at 1 km south of Polish BCs (near last lodges).

Had no stationary camps: prepared places for tents, put them up for 2-3 nights and then moved them as he fixed good sections of rope and could move higher; used Polish ABC as their ABC. First tried Japanese route but problems: On Sept 30, Egorov and Karpenko hit by rockfall. Karpenko's leg broken and Egorov's back injured. Rescue/evacuation took 3 days.

Shinov on 16th Oct at 7100m on 14th day on wall got altitude sickness and took another 3 days evacuation because as ropes fixed high up, lower ropes removed; after this evacuation 2 members had bad throats. So only 4 strong climbers left but really exhausted as down to BC for rest after 2 weeks on wall but wanted to continue on Japanese route; however decided to climb easier route and Poles agreed OK to use their route (Bonington).

On 22 Oct these 4 members to ABC at 5000m, 23rd in own tent at 6150m at Poles C1, 24th to 6800m at Polish C2 with own tent. 25th 1:00 am all 4 up to 7300m, without tent (to use C3 Polish tent) and reached 7300m 6:00 am now very cold and stayed in tent. 26th 9:00 am strong wind and still very cold but started up and 2 members on top at 2:00 pm and other 2 about 15 mins later; left summit 3:30 pm (video films raising Russian and Nepalese flags) and descended to Polish C3 at 7:30 pm, moving slowly to kick legs often to increase circulation of blood. 27th down from C3 at 10:00 am and at 6100m late afternoon, very tired. 28th evening arrived BC.

Senatorov left BC 27th evening. Actually was no BC because on 21st porters had cleared it. Used American Annapurna South BC. 4 summiters left BC 29th with Elagin and Ianotchkine.