원정 개요

Denamiel and Caboche left C2 2:00 am 1st Oct Chinese time for top. Caboche turned around at C3 because hands and feet getting cold at about 6 am. Denamiel went on to summit at 11:00 am and both slept in C1 that night.

2nd Oct and 3rd Oct summit parties all got to top except Tibetan Garsang who reached summit plateau on 3rd, but not top - snow because waist deep after long storm with avalanche risk between C2 and C3 even before big storm.

Summit party of 2 Oct, left C3 at 1:30 am, on top at 8:00 to 8:30 am and all slept in C2 except Backshall who went down to ABC to sleep. Summit party of 3 Oct left C3 at 2:30 am, on top between 11:15 and 12:00 noon, returned to C2 at 4:00, 5:00 and 8:00 pm (Marsh stopped in C3 while in his descent, so came to camp late).

Oxygen used by only Cole and Backshall from C3 to top to C3; Hsu and J. Marsh from C3 to top to C2.

Tibetans:
Luda, Tingri, Everest 21/05/05
Thumba, 1/10/83, Shigatse, Cho Oyu 28/9/05
(Garsang/Gesang doesn't know DOB and home village, now is Lhasa, 1st 8000er)

Non-summiters:

Farmer reached C2; later climbing from C1 and C2 broke a toe in crampon accident
Holton reached C2; got slight case of pneumonia
Lawes reached C1; got pulmonary and cerebral edema at different times
S. Marsh reached C1; lacked motivation to go higher
Sexton got to ABC; left team on about 20 Sept with bad cough
Valente reached C1, fell on moraine


Philip Ling - 8 July 2008

Kelsang was well and truly well up on the flat of the summit plateau. However he stopped a few minutes from where it is possible to see Everest, which is apparently the true summit. I remember quite well he told me we were on the summit, however as I still couldn't see Everest from that point I continued another 10-15 minutes alone to where I could. Phil Crampton told me later it was his first time up there and he may not have known you have to sight Everest to be considered as having reached the absolute highest point. But in my opinion he was close enough to consider it a summit.