원정 개요

BC at northwest end of Panch Pokhari.

Very cold (-20 degrees C at BC) and windy; sunny in morning and snowy in afternoon. 26th Humar, Ros went to look at West Face from West Col but it was foggy and wouldn't see wall. 29th Humar and kitchen boy Pemba to 6300m on southern slopes of Baruntse crossing crevasse, not knowing exactly where they were. Next morning up to 6600m west side of SE Ridge. Got to vertical rock pillar where kitchen boy turned back. Humar tried to get up pillar, but 5m from top all covered by sugar snow or another section overhanging cornice and after 1 hour got up its west side and traversed West Face at 6600-6800m altitude where faced alternated pillars and couloirs and its "a long ridge." At top at 5:20 pm just after sun had gone behind mountains. Stayed one minute there and retraced route fast, really running down; did vertical pillar in darkness, wind blowing, no headlamp. Came to place where had left stick (where kitchen boy had turned back) and know he was on right track. On down to 6300m where Pemba waiting for him in small tent they had pitched on 20th. Stayed that night in tent. 31st returned to BC by lunch time.

Sherpa:
Pemba Tshering, about 24 years old, Tashigaon