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Americans on Ama Dablam (Mountain Madness)

Ama Dablam · 2006 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

Miles Smart and Eric Dazell made their summit trip from base camp to top to base camp in two and half days. They left base camp at 7:00 am on 4 Nov, slept in C2 that night, left it at 4:00 am and were on the top at 11:00 am of the 5th, arrived back in C2 at 3:00 pm to sleep, and returned to base camp at 1:00 pm on the 6th. On their summit day, the weather "was perfect, no clouds, warm, no wind, full moon," says Smart on 10 Dec.

All camps were established for them by Henry Todd's Sherpas, Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa) and Gurmin. "They set up camps for us as we needed them a day or two before we used them," says Smart in his 11 Dec email. We were the first to use all the tents, then other people used them after us."

They had "three porters up and two down (who) carried basically everything we used on the mountain: food, climbing gear, sleeping bags, boots, etc. They went up the day before we slept at ABC, then again the day we slept at C1. The day we descended from C2 to BC the porters met our 2 loads at C1 and brought them down. We carried everything we used on the mountain from C1 to C2 except tent." (Smart's 10 Dec email).

These local porters came from Gudel vdc, Solu, according to Todd's non-climbing sirdar, Kami Nuru, who lives in Kathmandu. They were Deepak Rai, Talktse Rai and Ganesh Bahadur Rai.

Kami Nuru confirmed that this team were the first foreigners to occupy Todd's camps; base camp was occupied on 23 Oct by the staff. Todd provided not only the tents but also all food, two climbing Sherpas, Gurmin and Pasang Dawa (aka Pa Dawa), and kitchen staff.

Eugene (Gene) Rehfeld got to C1 and slept there during the team's acclimatization climb early in the trip, but after his return to BC, he got a bad cough and cold which persisted. He remained at BC till the summit party returned to base.

James (Jim) Wiedemer arrived at BC with the team on 25 October, spent one night there, developed "moderate or worse AMS," left the mountain on the 26th, and spent four days in Pangboche. "The AMS got better, but snowballed into other things, which ended the trip for him," says Smart on 10 December. He trekked to Lukla with Henry Todd.

  • 내부 원정 ID5500
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD06352
  • 대장Miles Smart
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Miles Raphael SmartUSALeader성공--
Eric Lane DalzellUSAClimber성공--
Eugene Elwood (Gene) RehfeldUSAClimber---
James Ivy (Jim) WiedemerUSAClimber---

출처·참고문헌

http://www.mountainmadness.com/newsroom/newsroom.cfm?dis_id=28 · 2006 · 웹사이트 (5) ·