원정 개요

16th Oct planned for summit but wind and dense fog/cloud/white-out preventing seeing way ahead foiled plan. 1 member and 2 Sherpas in C4 on 15th Oct afternoon: on 16th stayed in C4 till afternoon, there weather still bad so down again on 16th. Waited in C3 3 hours, weather still bad so down again on 16th C1. Climb now finished.

Saito only member strong enough to climb while others suffering from altitude or head colds.

Fixed ropes from C1 to C2 where many deep crevasse; route stayed to right of icefall this area under rock wall from which few rocks fell, not dangerous; rest of route to C4 easy.