원정 개요

BC at normal BC site
ABC-Biv at bottom of West Face
Biv1 at West Face (middle of face)
Biv2 at West Face (middle of face)
Biv3 at West Face (middle of face)
Biv4 at West Face (middle of face).

Climbed a line to left of intended route because the intended route was very steep rock so took less direct line to top on snow and ice not so steep (intended line 70-80 degrees, line taken 50-60 degrees mostly but in 2 sections, 85 degree at 6300m). 9:20 am on top after 40 minutes climb from biv at 6700m, then descended SW Ridge to normal route C1 (very long way) and no fixed rope left by 14 Nov avalanche from 6500-6400m. Returned to C1 5:40 pm ("I'm very tired", Shinno). Yoshida had lost his headlamp and Shinno had to go up from C1 to 5900m to give lamp; Shinno could see well in dark night but Yoshida could not see. 20 Nov to BC.

Team had only one tent which they carried with them as they went up and down the mountain; they always climbed together. Yoshida noticed he had 3 frostbitten fingers when he reached C1 on descent; frostbite will probably heal. The big overhanging serac usually seen on West Face was not there in November and their route from biv 2 went right over its former place.