원정 개요

BC same as Swiss this season
C1 on glacier west of North Ridge
1st C2
2nd C2 at 1 tent beside Swiss C1 (and 1 tent 200m above).

Porters dumped bags halfway from Samagaon to BC and took a week to get all to BC. First tried to climb Yugoslav 1983 Autumn route via N Face and to put C2 on face, but after 3 days search for a pass through many crevasses and seracs, on 15th found it and pitched C2 on glacier plateau. Route on to face not good: Yugoslav couloir very dangerous rocks and alternative they attempted further to west swept by avalanche so abandoned this face.

Decided to try Swiss route this autumn and to do so was necessary to move C2 and began moving gear to C1 and also on snowfield 200m above Swiss C1. 23 Oct 2 members went up to see route above to C3 6400m. 24th Oct reached but same day decided to abandon due to dangerous snow conditions above.

Climb now abandoned. Left BC 1 day after Swiss; Spaniards themselves say they left on 25th.