원정 개요

BC at Khumbu Glacier
C1 above Khumbu Icefall
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col by Sherpas (not used)
High point for members at 7200m at C2-C3.

Go Woo-Seek, Go Young-Kuk (leader) and Kim Young-Hak reached C3 on 17 Oct on their way up to South Col. But snowfall compelled them to stay at C3. Snowfall continued on the 18th and they remained at C3. On the 19th the three Koreans descended to C2 and two Sherpas waiting to go up to C3 at C2 descended to BC. Snowfall started when the three Koreans reached at C1 on 23 Oct. Kim suffered from headache and started vomiting. At BC the Koreans requested Ang Nima for help to clear the icefall to enable them to bring down Kim from C1. The request was refused saying that it is too dangerous to open the icefall. Kim had to stay three nights at C1 without food. On 25th the weather became clear and the Koreans descended to BC on 26th.

The Koreans said that Wally Berg asked Ang Nima (SPCC staff hired by Wally Berg?) to remove the icefall ladders after 27th. And Ang Nima told the Korean expedition that the icefall ladders will be removed after 27 Oct and if the Koreans wanted to used the ladders on icefall after 27th they have to pay additional charge of US$1800. Also said that the Koreans will be liable to pay US$300 for each ladder in case of damage or lost.

The Koreans expedition was disappointed by the behavior of Berg.

Three members South Korean Everest expedition are part of the seven-member South Korean Lhotse expedition. The expedition planned to climb Everest first and to move Lhotse West Face normal route. The Canadian Everest expedition led by Wally Berg was already at the base camp when the Koreans arrived to the base camp on 2 September. The Wally Berg team and the Korean team made arrangement to use the icefall route by the Korean expedition paying US$8000 to Peak Promotion. And also agreed on that which ever team summits first the icefall route will be kept open till the climbing period of the expedition permit.

The expedition returned to Kathmandu on 31 Oct and will leave 6 Nov. The expedition leader Go said that he will never return to Khumbu Icefall to climb Everest, rather he will try from Tibet.

1. Dawa Ongchu Sherpa (2029-9-3) Makalu VDC-9, Walung. He went up to
South Summit opening the route. He has summited Everest 2 times,
Kangchenjunga 4 times, Broad Peak, G1 and C2.

2. Pasang Tenzing Sherpa (2038-8-10), Makalu VDC-9, Walung. His high
point was 7200m. He has summited Everest from Tibet.

3. Tashi Sherpa (2034-8-19) Bung VDC-9, Cheremy, Solukhumbu. His high
point was South Summit. He has summited Cho Oyu.

4. Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (2029-9-7) Makalu VDC-9, Walung. His high point
was 7200m. He has summited Everest two times, Kangchenjunga two
times, Dhaulagiri, Langtang Lirung, Ama Dablam, Tilicho.

Two Sherpas used oxygen above S Col for opening route to S Summit.

Wally Berg, leader of Canadian Everest team - 21 Oct 2006

All his Sherpas were still at base camp waiting for the Koreans to finish their climb before they dismantled the Khumbu Icefall route.

Berg's team was asked to rescue Korean members from C1 because it was snowing and they were exposed to avalanche danger. Berg refused on the grounds that the snowfall made it too dangerous to move. There were an almost constant roar of avalanches when the five-day snowstorm ended.