원정 개요

BC at normal BC site
ABC at Rongbuk Glacier
C1 at bottom of North Face
Biv 1 at beginning of North Face
Biv 2 above Japanese Couloir
Biv 3 at bottom of Hornbein Couloir
High point near top of Hornbein Couloir.

From C1 to acclimatize went all the way around Changtse to reach North Col because direct line very dangerous from avalanching. 16 Sept slept at Col. On 20 Sept from ABC to Tashigaon Village in Tibet to rest. 23rd to ABC. Waited about 1 week for snowfall and avalanching to stop. 30th up from ABC to 1st biv. 1st Oct to 2nd biv and 2nd Oct to 3rd biv. 3rd Oct from biv 3 to 8500m at 7:30 am 5 hours above biv 3 where Hornbein Couloir opens out, by Alberto and Juan (Ferran stopped at 8200m not feeling strong). At 8500m Juan's strength finished "quite steep no ropes." Alberto turned back with Juan because didn't want to go on alone and maybe beginning to get tired too, so both back to biv 3 with Ferran. "We made good push." Biv 3 at terrible place (rocks, took 4 hours to make place for 1 small tent). 4 Oct to ABC at 11:00 pm NST . Strong wind on 2nd; 3rd no wind, sunny and very cold at that altitude.

Team arrived in Nepal on 18 Aug & left Kathmandu for border on 21 Aug.