원정 개요

Email from Uros Samec to Miss Hawley - 17 Oct 2006

Our team attempted (and climbed) South West Face. Pavle Kozjek, Emil Tratnik and Marjan Kovac started a new route at left side. The same day Uros Samec and Alijaz Tratnik started up the Kurtyka-Loretan-Troillet route, but because of bad conditions traversed to the left to join the new line. New line has difficulties 50-60 degrees with one pitch on ice WI 4+. Pavle bypassed this pitch on rock UIAA V-. We fixed no rope. While Kozjek continued to the top the same day, completing his ascent in fourteen and a half hours (he reached base camp thirty hours after departing), the other four slept above the junction with the normal route and reached the summit next day. Samec and Aljaz Tratnik climbed in alpine style, spending the night in their own tent at C3 on the normal route. Kovac and Tratnik used the team's acclimatization tent at C2.

We acclimatized on normal route, first we slept at C1, second time at C2.
We first slept at ABC at 15 Sept, C1 at 17 Sept, C2 at 21 Sept.
C1 at 6400m, C2 at 7000m.

Summit - Pavle Kozjek on Oct 2, 18:00 Chinese time (15:45 NST)
Uros Samec, Aljaz Tratnik, Oct 3 at 12:00 Chinese time (09:45 NST)
Emil Tratnik, Marjan Kovac, Oct 3, at 16:00 Chinese time (13:45 NST)

Peter Poljanec some problems with altitude, so his highest point was 6600m. Urban Golob had high altitude cerebral edema. Miha Habjan had pulmonary edema. Both of them returned to Slovenia from Chinese camp, so they didn't climb on the mountain. Their highest point was Chinese base camp, more precisely 300 meters higher; they made acclimatization above Chinese base camp.

We left ABC on Oct 7, returned to Kathmandu on Oct 10.