원정 개요

BC across river from Kanbachen village
ABC just above Khumbakarna Glacier, just NE of point 4462
C1 on southern end of Merra Glacier.

17th Oct rested and 18th Ostergaard left C1 at 5:30 am climbed to Merra's summit. Both members climbed on right side of SE Buttress, crossed Merra Glacier at about 5650m from west side to east side of glacier. Climbed small gully to SE Face at 5800m on face. Ortmann very tired and went only to 6000m on face, going very slowly, where Ostergaard met him on descent from top (had climbed face to northeast (6227m on HMG Map, 6160m according to Ostergaard's GPS) and along main summit's ENE Ridge. "Quite easy" climb; only tricky section was 20m rock slab just below east summit. Ridge covered in snow. On top at 10:00 am. Ortmann had altitude problem that slowed him; both down to ABC at 4:45 pm and climb over. 19th left ABC and down to Ghunsa.