원정 개요

BC at normal site (same as others this season)
Biv1 at slightly higher than NE Col
Biv2 bottom of NE Ridge's steep section
High point at NE Ridge.

30 Sept both members went 200m above C2 to acclimatize and then down to BC and rested at BC. Swiss expedition's forecast said weather good on 4 Oct; Russians to 6100m that day to biv. 5th Oct windy went to 6400m to biv. 6th Oct up to 6900m biv and 7th Oct left tent and went to 7400m without tent, but took Swiss tent (with Swiss permission), fixing rope for them. 8th biv 7400m to rest. 9th up at 7:30 am. 8:00 am Gorbatenkov turned back to 7400m because fingers and toes cold; Shamalo up to 8050m on ridge, then saw summit.

10th both to BC. Decided on 9th, wind getting stronger at higher altitudes; and they were tired, food running out.