원정 개요

Did not go to North Ridge as planned because glacier very broken up and long distance; also because they had planned to acclimatize on normal route before going to North Ridge, but long period of bad weather left not enough time for this.

Iriondo not fast climber, so only Zubimendi went to top. Both left C2 at 11:30 pm 30 Sept; Iriondo to 7400m and turned back to C2 while Zubimendi went alone till 7:00 am, then met others (French). Had to stop often because problem with crampons; took direct line to plateau, reached highest point and saw Everest and Lhotse at 1:45 pm. On top were 3 others including Italians.

Iriondo was very tired and asked for help and they gave him food and water; he was very slow, stopped off at C3 while Zubimendi now moved faster to C2 at 7:00 pm. To ABC on 2nd and there realized both feet frostbitten (right more seriously then left).