원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at deposit only (not slept in)

Every year mountain changes and is necessary to find safe route each time, so it took time to find relatively safe way (from falling ice seracs above C2) and to fix the route from C2 to C3; this took long time. Spent 11 Oct in C3 because of strong wind; summit party left C3 for top at 1:30 am of 12 Oct; on top: Mondinelli and Pemba Rinzi at 12:00 and Confortola at 12:40 pm, Camandona 1:00 pm (Mondinelli well acclimatized from frequent climbs of 8000ers, other 2 members not and so slower and as day wore on, wind picked up and blow away tracks of Mondinelli and Pemba Rinji). Camandona slept in C3 12 Oct, tired and did not want to move in darkness, while other 3 summiters went all the way down to BC at 11:30 pm.

Iacchini to C2 3 times but not acclimatizing well, so no higher.

Blanc left expedition 25 Sept (son's death); had reached C1.

Team left BC only on 19th because they waited for helicopter.

Avalanching taking place "all the time" from several places.

Note: The summit claims of Marco Confortola for ANN1, DHA1, LHOT, MAKA and KANG are now in dispute; see articles published by Explorers Web and Lo Scarpone (portal of the Italian Alpine Club).

Statements by Silvio Mondinelli:

From Lo Scarpone (7 July 2025):

The real summit was reached by me and a Sherpa. And then he [Confortola, ed.] arrived on the ridge, but he didn't come to the summit. Let's say it was still half an hour away, on the ridge you'll be at 8000-7950 meters. And then we found ourselves on the ridge, me, him, and the Sherpa, and we took pictures. But I also have the other photo, with the ice axe and the stick, which are at the top. Afterwards, Marco Camandona [who confirms that he met them both just below the ridge where Confortola took the photo, ed.] stopped at camp 3, while he, the Sherpa, and I descended to base camp, walking all night. When we arrived, I showed the others the photo of the summit, and he showed them the other one. I didn't have the courage to say anything there, but the others noticed. I said to myself, ‘Let's leave it,’ also because the expedition had been unlucky [referring to Abele Blanc's return due to a family bereavement, ed.]. But it bothered me that Marco then wrote that he had reached the summit.

From Silvio Mondinelli to Billi Bierling on 09/08/2025:

I definitely confirm that Marco did not reach Annapurna' summit.