원정 개요

1st BC to East Dhaulagiri Glacier, southsast of point 6014m on Japanese map
C1 at NE Col
High point on NE Ridge.

From 1st BC climbed icefall but steep and dangerous. Climbed 1 day in icefall, then decided too dangerous with rainfall daily: reached 4500m and returned. Then moved BC to normal site from E Face ascent from there and 3rd Oct looked at face which had no snow; this not good: water falling down face.

Went on to east at same altitude as col to see face and decided not to go onto face; climbed NE Ridge. 15th Oct 1st summit bid made by both Endos and a Sherpa reached about 8000m in five days but very strong south wind and Endos down to C3, Ang Phurba to C1.

2nd bid up from BC 22nd Oct 24th, reached C3 but again strong wind and down on 25th and climbing finished.

Other 3 members to C1 only. Left BC 30th Oct. Ridge not technically difficult.