원정 개요

BC at Pangpema (Erpic & Plevnik arrive BC 15 April)
ABC at southwest end of West Langpo Glacier
C1 at below Langpo Col (Langpa La)
High point at NE Summit.

To acclimatize Zalokar, Stremfelj, Mihalic and Markovic climbed 6000m peak between Pangpema and Drohmo Peak on 13 April.

Made an ABC because 25 km from BC to C1; was at start of West Langpo Glacier. 24 April went to Langpo Col at 6400m but later route avoided this col and joined NE Ridge at 6600m. From C1, Mihalic on 28 April alone tried to reach Pathivara's summit (via Sphinx summit at 6825m), but ridge knife-edged and avalanche prone from 18-19 April snowfall, so he returned to C1 because too dangerous for one climber alone.

29 April Stremfelj and Zalokar at 4:00 am left C1 and at 8:00 am on top of Sphinx via simple ridge (NE Ridge) of hard snow and ice easy to climb; (in descent fixed 200m for others but then decided too difficult for other members). Stremfelj and Zalokar continued from Sphinx to Pathivara NE Summit 7090m at about 3:00 pm along NE Ridge; from there to main summit was in clouds, and would have to biv and abandon their 2nd plan to go to Janak, so down to C1 same day.

30 April Stremfelj, Markovic and Novak went to Sphinx summit and down to ABC and on 1 May to BC. 3 May Stremfelj and Zalokar with 2 Sherpa porters to Janak Chuli.

Sphinx (6825m) summited on 3 successive days:

28 Apr by Mihalic alone in 5 hours from C1 to summit.
29 Apr by Stremfelj and Zalokar in 4 hours C1 to summit.
30 Apr by Stremfelj (again), Markovic and Novak in 4 hours C1 to summit.

Route: Northwest slope (snow slope 35 degree-40 degree) to NE Ridge (45 degree snow and ice) for all three parties. Had no permit for Sphinx.

Health problems:
Hartman had a back problem and reached ABC only.
Horvat lost his way descending Pathivara Chuli from ABC to BC, had to bivouac
and fingers frostbitten.