원정 개요

BC at normal BC site
ABC at normal C1 site.

From Camp at 5600m went alpine-style because impossible for 2 climbers with their own ideas of route to agree with other teams on mountain at same time. Because of deep snow in classical route and made no fixed camps, First biv made only on 22nd because of bad weather (heavy snowfall). Left Biv3 at 4:15 am and on top 11:45 am and down to Biv3 3:00 pm and slept there. 26th at BC at noon (12:00 hours). Then to Samagaon (3600m) to rest.

Left for BC on 1 May. 4 May from BC at 2:00 am to ascend new route - plan was to climb SW Face but changed plans because in deep snow difficult and dangerous to be the only climbers there, and also could have problem about the permit for this route. So instead made new route on NE Face well to east of classical route in 4 bivouacs: 1st biv at 6000m on 4 May, 5 May 2nd biv 6500m, 3rd biv at 7200m on 6 May, 4th biv at 7500m on 7 May and top on 8 May; left 4th biv at 6:30 am, difficult rocks above till snow couloir where reached 3:30-4:00 pm at 7750m, at top 5:30-6:00 pm. Now down first ascent route and biv at 7600m 8:00 pm. 9 May 6:30 am left biv and reached BC 12:30 pm (13:30 hours) after 3 days of no food, but others gave drink and Chieko Shimada gave liquid "energy food."

"It was my dream to make new route in the Himalaya."