원정 개요

Summit team left C3 at midnight. Weather was clear and calm. Snow conditions very good at about 7700m. They deposited their rucksacks. Pemba and Marti Ernst carried straight on, but Gallati rested there for a while. Ernst Marti and Pemba summited at 2 pm, spent 20 minutes on summit and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. Marti is a bit confused about the summit. They went up to the highest point on the right side. He thinks the "double summit" on the left side is 20m higher. There were no prayer flags on their summit; there were tracks to their summit though.

In the meantime Gallati carried on to the summit and arrived at the same summit at 4 pm.
When he descended it had clouded over. He missed C3 and descended to C3 where he arrived at 7:30 pm. C2 was deserted, no gas for cooking. He stayed at C2 until Ernst Marti and Pemba arrived there at 10 am on 21 May. They descended to BC from C1 on skies, which they had deposited at the camp.

Leuzinger got to C2 on 15 May, but did not stay the night; he did not climb back up as he was feeling exhausted.

Werner Marti got to C2 on 24 May, but did not stay the night; he abandoned the climb as he was feeling too weak and exhausted.

Gallati got frostbite on two fingers on right hand. He has not seen a doctor but thinks he'll be able to keep his fingers.

Pemba Tamang, 31/5/72, Taksindu