원정 개요

Near other team's camps
C2 at below (4 hrs to Col).

Of 42 days at mountain, only 5-6 days of good weather. 22 April slept in 1st C3 at 6750m; 22 April to 7400m, just below summit plateau and slept there at C2 and wanted to go to top but strong winds forced retreat instead; on 24th and down to BC. Bad weather for long time. 6 May from BC to C1, C2 on 7th, 8th in new C3 at 6950m at North Col. 9th from new C3 to 7700m, big storm down to C2 and 10th to BC. 14 May up to C5, 15th to C3 at (all at 6900m, 16th to 7500m to C4. 17th 4:00 am up to top at 11:30 am (Bogomolov) and 12:15 (Tortladze with 2 Germans from Kiefer expedition) and down to sleep at 7500m again at 4:00 pm. 18th to BC in bad snowstorm below C2 (deep snow, fog and strong wind) and lost way, so arrived BC at 5:30 pm.


Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

The two Germans [Richter and Weist] stated, that all seven climbers on that day were only below the fore-summit. The "summit photos" from Sergei Bogomolov were identified by Ralf Dujmovits as on the rocks of the fore-summit!