원정 개요

Shimada, Kusang and Jangbu left C4 at 04:30 hours, summited at 10:30 hours, stayed on summit 15 minutes, descended to C2 where they reached at 18:00 hours. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was very good, no wind, no clouds, sunny day. 30 minutes later Russians and Germans reached to summit without oxygen. Sue Fear who was also trying to reach summit without oxygen gave up.

When Shimada left BC Fear and Konishi, member of Ken Noguchi's cleaning expedition were at C1 to try for summit. Shimada returned to Kathmandu from Arughat by local bus at about 22:00 hours on 30th. Shimada will leave Kathmandu in a week time. According to Shimada it was late to start in May. Snow started melting, crevasses getting wider. She thinks if she started in April it would have been much better. The original plan was to begin climbing in April, but she was kept waiting in Kathmandu for 10 days due to late arrival of Junko Tabei. During the acclimatization period when Shimada and Taniguchi were on C3 there was an avalanche between C1 and C2.

Fixed rope was put up only up to C4.

Sherpa summiters:
Kusang Dorje, July 58, Makalu-9, Manaslu X1
Jangbu, 28/4/59, Tapting, Everest X4


Junko Tabei - 24 May 2006

Shimada arrived Kathmandu 6 April, but was stuck in Kathmandu because of general strike; so instead of trekking to BC, she had to fly on 14 April to Samagaon on helicopter. She was very difficult woman demanding all Sherpas' attention, thinking only of her needs.


Eberhard Jurgalski - 11 Jan 2010

The two Germans [Richter and Weist] stated, that all seven climbers on that day were only below the fore-summit. The "summit photos" from Sergei Bogomolov were identified by Ralf Dujmovits as on the rocks of the fore-summit!