원정 개요

BC at south of Barun Pokhari
ABC at foot of Chago Glacier
C1 at bottom of steep section of Chago Glacier
C2 at Makalu La
C3 at Nw Face on rock pillar.

2 members went no higher than BC: Moretti got throat infection and left after 10 days; Peretti left after, one week: tired and his style is to climb without shoes, so not possible to climb Makalu. This left four climbing members.

On 24 May left C3 for top: 4 climbing members plus Mingma Nuru and Lhakpa Sherpa. Zambaldi turned back at 8200m because he was hungry at noon; down to ABC at 9:00 pm. Bertole turned back at 8300m at 5:30 pm because it was now too late to continue; back to C3. Ferro also dropped back because it was too late to go on; he stopped ascent at 8200m at 4:30pm and down to C3. Only Vielmo went to top and back to C3 at midnight. Both Sherpas had turned back: Mingma Nuru at just 7700m with stomach ache and Lhakpa just above 8000m tired (had stopped using oxygen).

Only Sherpas used oxygen: Mingma Nuru in C3 during night of 23rd and Lhakpa from 7800m to 7900m.

Sherpas:
Mingma Nuru, 18/7/79, Khumjung, Everest 2/6/05
Lhakpa, 7/5/65, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu 21/9/03

Sherpas not satisfactory, especially Mingma Nuru who got very angry at Vielmo for no known reason and tried to attack Vielmo several times with a bottle, rocks and ice axes.