원정 개요

BC at same site as 3 Italian teams
C1 on steep section below Makalu La
C2 on Makalu La.

First trekked in Khumbu to acclimatize. Had big snowfall after as BC and camped at 6400m and 6500m before established C1 at 6600m because of deep snow and heavy loads but wanted to camp as high as possible. After established C2 down to BC to rest, by now Natkanski developed throat infection. 18 May to C1 and 19th down to BC because of snow conditions. 21 May all up to C1; 22nd to C2; 23rd moved to 7600m. 24 May 2 members and Tamang left early to join Italians 1 Sherpa rope fixing. 2 members left 5:00 am taking oxygen and started using it at about 7800-7900m but Natkanski slow and Czerwinska went up alone and at 5:00 pm realized couldn't go to top that day and decided to biv at 8200m (no biv equipment - very cold) while Natkanski reached 8000m at 6:00 pm and down to C3 and "Sherpas" in C3 too. Czerwinska did not use oxygen now because mask prevented her seeing route. 5:30 am up following trail of yesterday's climbers and passed what had thought was top but not top so on to end of fixed rope and on to top. Convinced was top because tracks ended and no place to go higher; on top were pieces of colored paper (no poles or oxygen bottles). She was hallucinating but is sure it was top, was alone here at 9:20 am. Down to C3 at 8:00 pm. 26th to C1. 27th all to BC. 28th lower BC south of Barun Pokhari and back to Tumlingtar to fly out to KTM.

Natkanski was hallucinating at C3 24-5 May, thought he was in BC. Problem like Anna's was oxygen starvation (cerebral edema).

"Sherpa" was Tshering Tamang, 25/5/74, Gorakhama, Solu, no 8000ers