원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall - occupied only 1 night
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 at right of top of Geneva Spur
High point at West Face Couloir

After established C3, down to BC to rest. Left from BC on 5 May and went straight through to C3 same day; rested 1 day in c3; 7th went to C4 stayed there till evening of 8 May. Left in summit bid at about 10:00 pm and had to break trail since no one had gone ahead of them. Snow was solid and did not require them to fix any rope; left their rope at bottom of couloir. Got to 80-100m below summit in couloir, taking turns leading in deep snow in couloir, Kalny had stomach problem but insisted on pushing on to top; they agreed they would turn back at 5:00 pm; at 4:00 pm Kalny starting to hallucinate and Minark insisted they descend immediately and did 4:00 pm, he suddenly realized Kalny no longer beside him; found him in deep snow 200m below turn around point (300 linear meter below) without helmet which had left in C4. Minarik took 15 minutes to reach him; Kalny looked Ok and said he was fine only in shock. They continued down, Kalny ahead of Minarik. At about 7850m altitude Kalny asked Minarik to go ahead to C4 to make drink for him and Minarik did so, but Kalny did not come to C4. Minarik stayed in C4 not searching in night because he was tired and nowhere to look up or down. In morning 10 May Sherpas going to South Col told Minarik that Kalny was below and alive; Kalny had gotten nearly to C3 and 5 hours after Minarik reached him, he died of multiple injuries internally. Kalny no longer wearing his gloves, which must have been stolen by Sherpas. Body wrapped in bag near seracs and no help from other team to cover him. Minarik got frostbitten toes in summit push.

This was Kalny's first Himalayan peak but many climbs and up to 7000m in Pamirs, etc.

When Minarik looked down towards C3 saw Kalny being given oxygen by some Sherpas.