원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at the "turtle" below couloir

4 May down from C3, where had gone for acclimatization for BC. Hodges was slow to get to C2 and arrived with frostbite in 10 fingers because wearing too thin gloves and exhausted; Findik reached BC while Hodges stayed in C2 to warm fingers in warm water, went to BC on 5th, then 7th by helicopter to KTM to go home; fingers black with blisters and may loose some tips.

Findik had to wait till Chileans finished their climb and made space for him in C4. Findik left BC 12 May to C2, 15th to C3 and 16th in C4; in this party were Phuri Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and Mrs Maya Sherpa; left 17th May at 2:00 am and all reached 8450m at 1:30 pm and Findik on top at 2:00 pm while Sherpas not so skilled technically not able to go to top up thinly snow-covered rock and now no fixed ropes so each failed to surmount this part and started down at 2:30 pm from their high point and Findik later joined Sherpas so all 4 down together. Findik to C2, Maya in C4 with Coster and other 2 Sherpas to C3.

Oxygen used by Findik and Mrs Maya Sherpa from C3 to their high points and other Sherpas from C4 to their highpoint; all oxygen finished in C4 on descent.

Sherpas:
Phuri Sherpa, 1969, Patle, Everest 27/5/04
Phurba Chhiri, 4/10/68, Kurima, Lokhim, Lhotse X2, etc, etc