원정 개요

BC at highest plan for BC in normal area.

Hoped to make C3 one week after C2 but heavy snowfall with knee-deep snow on ground delayed progress till 13 May. Left C3 for top; all members and Sherpas Phura Gyalzen, Pemba Rinzi and Dawa Tshering. Abegglen turned back at 8500m at 8:00 pm because he saw a storm coming up, back in C3 5:00 pm. 3 members and 3 Sherpas got to top at 4:30 pm of 14 May; Toggenburg had also turned back at 8500m. Bad storm (wind,snow) came at 6:30 pm and lasted 2 hours; it blew away one of C3's 3 tent containing all cooking supplies, so 5 members crowded into one tent and 4 Sherpas in the other. 15th May all down to BC with all gear. 3 members got slight frostbitten in descent from top in the storm: Joos in one foot, Zinsli and Gujan in fingers.

On 16th May in BC Joos had a stroke: for 4 hours he couldn't speak and right side paralyzed; this condition gradually improved (trekking agent said 18 May when Joos in Kathmandu his speech slurred; Zinsli questions possibility of full recovery).

Sherpa Summiters:
Phura Gyalzen - 22 yrs old, Pangkoma, Solu, 1st 8000er
Pemba Rinzi - 25/11/74, Kharikhola, Everest X6, Kang X1, Lhotse X1
Dawa Tshering - 24 yrs old, Khunde, 1st 8000er