원정 개요

BC at little lower than Garcia's camp
C1 at left of top of Icefall
C3 at west end of Great Shelf.

Started from C3 5:00 am (had intended to start at 11:00 pm of 13th but finally snowfall stopped only at 4:00 am but not enough for avalanche danger). Got to top 4:30 pm and back to C3 at 9:00 pm with wind and snowfall; horrible night in tents that had been collapsed by Portuguese. Garcia to keep them from blowing away and in storm not possible to erect them. 15th to BC direct; from BC to Ramche where helicopter took them to Everest BC on 18th.