원정 개요

On 19 May Vallejo, Gonzalez-Rubio and Juanito's team left C3 at 2:10 am. The weather was good. When they got to 8300m the weather closed in and they decided to turn back to C3, where they arrived at 4:30 pm. On 20 May everybody decided to descend to BC, but Vallejo stayed at C3. Even though he was tired he thought he could give it another try. Joao Garcia was on his way up, which Vallejo knew. He arrived on 21 May at midday. Vallejo and Garcia carried on to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm on 21 May. On 22 May they left C4 at 3:20 am. The conditions were good, a bit of fresh snow. Weather was clear, but the climb was hard. They spent about 30 minutes on summit and descended to C4 where they arrived at 9 pm. When they arrived at C4 they could not melt any snow as they could not find the gas Garcia had deposited previously. The next day they left C4 at 10 am and arrived at BC at 9 pm. They stopped at C3 for drinks as there was gas.

The climb was very strenous, not because of the technical difficulties, but because of the long distance.