원정 개요

Made C3 and C4 to stay out of way of all others. This team fixed ropes from 6500m to top all the way (spent $32,160) and received from other climbers $14,700 only).

Sherpa/Tibetan summit party of 30 April summited at 15:05 and returned to ABC at 20:45.

1st [client] summit party left C4 at 1:10 am of 14 May and on top 9:55 am to 10:06 am; left top at 10:30 am: Hefti to C3 at 5:32 pm; at 7:42-8:25 pm all others to C1. Jensen turned back at 8100m (not using oxygen getting cold) on 13th of May.

2nd [client] summit party left C4 at 11:10-11:20 pm on 14 May; on top at 6:15 am of 15 May, left at 7:05 am. All members down to C3 at 11:43 am to 2:22 pm, some Sherpas/Tibetans to C2. In 15th summit party Bourrat and Medvetz turned back at 8700m too slow - frostbitten waiting at bottom of 2nd Step, 1 hours for others to move and over 1 hour in descent of 2nd Step.

Summiters:

30 April:
Phurba Tashi, 24/5/71, Khumjung, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X5
Son Dorje, 22/5/63, Phortse, Everest X2
Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, 1981, Phortse, Everest X4
Tashi Phinzo, aka Tashi Phuntsok, Tashi Pingtso, Tibetan, 1980,
Shigatse, Cho Oyu 21/9/03, Everest 23/5/04
Tashi Tsering, aka "Small" Tashi Tsering, Tibetan, Cho Oyu 21/9/03 & 22/9/05.
Tenzen, aka Tenzing, Den Zeng, Tashi Tenzing, Tibetan, 28/2/82,
Shigatse, Everest 30/5/03, Cho Oyu 27/9/03 (Japanese) & 26/9/04 (Brice)

14 May
Marcel Bach
Bill Crouse
Kurt Hefti
Terrace O'Connor
Kenneth Sauls
Phura Nuru, 30/10/82, Thami, 1st 8000er, Ang Rita's son
Karsang Namgel/Namgyal, 24/8/71, Thami, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X6
Lopsang/Lupsang Temba, 23/5/68, Khumjung, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X7
Pema Chhosang, 30/4/72, Khumjung, 1st 8000er
Ngawang Dhandun, aka Norbu Dradul, Norbu Dhendup, Luo Bu Zhan Dul, Tibetan,
1980, Shigatse, Everest 5/6/05, Cho Oyu 25/9/04
Ping Tso, aka Phinzo, Tibetan
Tashi Tsering (again from ABC)

15 May
Wayne Alexander
Maxime Chaya
Shaun Hutson
Mark Inglis
Robert Kilip
Mark Whetu
Mark Woodward
Son Dorje (again from ABC)
Lhakpa Nuru, 18/6/80, Khumjung (moved to Phortse), Everest 22/5/03
Dorje Sonam Gyalzen (again from ABC)
Tashi Phinzo (again from ABC)
"Small" Phubu Tshering, aka Phurbu Tshering, Tibetan, 13/12/83, Shigatse,
Everest 23/5/04 & 5/6/05 (Brice)
"Small" Wang Dui, Tibetan
Dor Jee, Tibetan
Tenzen (again from ABC)

Notes regarding non-summiter members

Brice stayed at C1 at North Col because from here he could see all camps by telescope and so more effective leader.

Medvetz turned back at 8700m in his summit bid since he was too slow because of a lot of pieces of metal in his legs after a motorbike accident and can't walk properly.

Merrell turned back at North Col because not fit enough to go on.

Peedom was member of film team and went to C4 only.

Oxygen:
Bach from C2 to top to C1
Bourrat from C1 to 8100m to ABC
Inglis in C3 to top to supply ran out below C3
Medvetz from C2 to 8700m to ABC
All other members from C3 to high points till supply ran out except
Jensen, who used none.
Sherpas and Tibetans in C4 to top until supply ran out somewhere below C3.

Frostbite cases:
Bourrat slight frostbite
Hutson frostbitten toes
Inglis frostbitten fingers and stumps of both legs (see next page)
Kilip one toe frostbitten
Medvetz slight frostbite

Tuk Bahadur Thapa Magar (18/5/74, Kerung, Solu) died of pulmonary edema at base camp on 4 April after fixing ropes to the North Col. After his second ascent to the North Col, he fell ill from HAPE, was evacuated to base camp where he later died.


Mark Inglis interview - 22 May 2006:

"If you're a climber, as I have been all my life, the skills are there" already. "My problem is not going up but coming down." This means "you have to be very careful" and there is "by far more wear and tear on the stumps." He got "superficial" frostbite on his stumps during descent (temperature was minus 45 degrees going up), and one finger will lose its top digit.

During his climb, one of his artificial legs broke, but that was only "a minor handicap." When he was going down the fixed ropes from the North Col, an anchor pulled out, he did a couple of somersaults, and ended up sitting in snow with one foot beside him. He did "a field fix" with duct tape and went carefully down the ropes. A new leg was brought up from ABC by Wayne Alexander, the maker of his legs, who later rebuilt the broken one stronger than it was originally (Alexander went to the top with him).

He had trained for this climb and summited Cho Oyu on 24 Sept 2004, but "the extreme environment" above C3 on Everest was not present at the summit of Cho Oyu.

He feels "huge satisfaction" at having climbed Everest. He will not go to any big mountain in future.


Mark Whetu interview - 22 May 2006

Inglis was stuck for 14 days on Mt. Cook in 1981 or '82 and his frostbitten legs were amputated at mid-calf. His fingers were only slightly frostbitten and no amputation on them.

On this Everest climb, during which Whetu was assigned to him, on the summit on 15 May he realized his fingers had been affected by the cold but it was only back in C3 that evening when he took his legs off that he realized his stumps were discolored from frostbite. Inglis went down to ABC in the evening of 16 May by being lowered on his bottom by Mark Woodward, another guide assigned to him. He rested in ABC on the 17th, and yaks carried him to base camp on the 18th.