원정 개요

1st summit party of Lande and Nima Ongdi left C4 at 3:00 15th, on top at 11:30 am CST (9:15 am NST) and down to 8300m.

2nd summit party (Gariano, Hanna, Kofanov, Olsen, Ryzhenko, Stern, Svergun, and Wheatley) left C4 at midnight 20/21 May and on top 7:30 am CST (5:15 NST) (4 Sherpas) and 7:30-10:00 am (5:15-7:45 NST) (members) and down to C2 to sleep.

3rd party Hall and 3 Sherpas left C3 at 12:00-1:00 am 25 May, on top at 9:00 am CST (06:45 NST).

Non-summiting members:

Abramov to 7500m "to help with organization."

Bousselaire developed cerebral edema at ABC on 25 May and left expedition.

Brevik to C2 (7800m) on 19 May with Kragset, heard of death in Great Couloir of Tomas Olsson, Swedish teammate of a Norwegian, and left expedition.

Cherny to C1, had bad cough, left expedition 14 May to help Pushkarev go home.

Dillon to 7300m on 12 May as photographer assigned to very young Australian, Christopher Harris, and turned back with Harris.

Christopher Harris hoped to be youngest Everest summiter, but when he had episodes of extremely low blood pressure at his high point of 7300m twice, he abandoned climb.

Richard Harris to North Col only; on 7th May developed bad cough, down to ABC, left expedition with his son, Christopher.

Kikstra to 8800m on 25 May [accompanying Thomas Weber].

Korobeshko to 7000m on 12 May to acclimatize and left after Plyushkin's death.

Kragset to 7800m with Brevik on 19 May, heard of Olsson's death and left.

Lien to 7800m, then down with Brevik and Kragset.

Morrow to 6500m on 7th May, then no more strength to go higher.

Muhl to 8700m (Second Step) with 21st May summit pary, his oxygen mask broke, and turned back.

Orkelbog base camp only; after he had been there for three days, his pregnant wife asked him to come home.

Plyushkin to 8750m with 21st May summit party, was moving very slowly, turned back alone to C2, slept there one night, next day went down 10-15 meters from camp, could not breathe, was given injection, died of cerebral edema.

Pushkarev had a stroke at North Col and left expedition 14 May, escorted home by Cherny.

Rozhkov to First Step, with 21st May summit party, very slow, oxygen supply finished but didn't know it, down to C1 that day.

Tyler to ABC only, had back pain and left expedition 24 April.

Weber to 8800m with 25th May summit party, lost his vision at very high altitude (had some kind of special eye problem) at ladder on Second Step, collapsed from a stroke and died.

Oxygen used by all members in summit parties from C1 to top to C1 or ABC. All Sherpas in summit parties in C2 to their high points to and in C2.

Sherpa summiters:

17 May:
Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Makalu vdc, first 8000er?

21 May:
Mingma Dorje, 30/8/80, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Balakharka, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X3
Nima, 14/2/77, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
Pasang Gyalzen, 30/7/81, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
Pasang (aka Pasang Temba), 20/2/83, Tashigaon, Sedua, Makalu, Everest X1
Rinjen, 3/2/73, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X2

25 May:
Dawa Tenjen, 21/12/74, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
Dorje, 1/6/60, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er
Jangbu, 26/8/85, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er
Lackha Sange, 21/6/64, Balakharka-Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Pemba Nurbu, 28/3/80, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er?
Pemba Rinjin, 1/1/65, Tashigaon, Makalu, Everest X1
Phurba Kusang, 20/5/82, Makalu vdc, 1st 8000er


Lincoln Hall's collapse:

Mike Dillon said on 29 May 2006: Hall reached summit at 9:00 am (Chinese time) on 25 May and then had difficulty descending, but resisted help from the Sherpas with him who were trying to get him down. By 7:20 pm he was only halfway to down the Second Step, which normally takes one hour to descend. Now the four Sherpas were exhausted by their efforts, and they reported to the base camp manager that he had been hallucinating, had fallen asleep at one time in this period, and finally was not moving. At 7:20 pm, the base camp manager told others (apparently including an Internet website) that Hall was dead. However, at 7:00 am on the 26th, Dan Mazur, another teams' leader, found him alive, gave him tea and reported to Abramov he was alive.

Dan Mazur said on 9 June 2006: At the "Mushroom Rock" at about 8550m he, two clients and Jangbu found Lincoln Hall, at 7:20 am (NST). Without the top of his down suit on his arms and shoulders, his gloves and cap off, no oxygen equipment, ice axe or backpack, he was sitting up three feet from the edge of the Kangshung Face. He said to them, "I imagine you guys are surprised to see me here." Mazur, "Yeah, yes I am." Hall, "Can you please tell me how I got here? ... You guys on this boat too?" They pulled him away from the edge, secured him with rope tied to his harness and an ice axe, gave him oxygen, food and water and put his hat and gloves back on him -- but he kept taking them off and Mazur's party had to keep putting them back on -- "he was like a three-old-year child," said Mazur. They radioed for Sherpas from his expedition to come up and get him; when Sherpas arrived at 11:30 am, he was delirious. Now Mazur's party knew it was too late for them to go for the top, they expected a storm to blow up, and their oxygen supply was running low; they went down to ABC.

Russell Brice in a memo "Reflections on Everest 2006" dated 9 June 2006, wrote: "It was heart-wrenching to hear Lincoln on the radio, and also to hear the conversations of the Sherpas who were helping him down the mountain. They also had to leave Lincoln for dead [in addition to other climbers who had had to leave the British independent, David Sharp], but somehow in his unconscious state he still managed to move along the ridge where he was found by members from another [Mazur's] team. Alex from 7 Summits tells me that even with this help, it still took another 15 Sherpas and 50 cylinders of oxygen to get Lincoln down to BC."


Where am I asks noted Australian climber, by Elizabeth Hawley

"Can you please tell me where I am?" asked the confused Australian mountaineer Lincoln Hall when climbers from another expedition on their way to the summit of Mount Everest found him sitting very close to the edge of a 2000m drop to the foot of the mountain's precipitous east face.
"Are you guys on this boat too?" he asked American Dan Mazur, two of Mazur's team members, Briton Myles Osborne, Canadian Andrew Brash, and Sherpa Jangbu. He was "delirous," Mazur told Reuters here Friday.
"He was like a three year old," said Mazur. When Mazur's party found Hall on May 26, he had no gloves or hat on and his down jacket had been pulled off his shoulders and arms. He had no bottled oxygen supply.
They put his clothing back on him, but he kept taking them off like a small child, and they repeatedly had to get them back on him.
None of his gear was near Hall, whom they had found at the altitude of 8550m on the giant 8850m mountain.
Mazur's party moved Hall away from the precipice and tied him securely to the fixed rope and an ice axe. They gave him food, water and oxygen, and Mazur radioed to Hall's base camp that they had found Hall alive and his team should immediately send up Sherpas to get him down the mountain.
Hall had been to Everest summit the day before, but had had great difficulty descending, according one of his teammates who asked not to be identified. Furthermore he resisted help from the four Sherpas who were trying to assist him.
He was extremely slow going down and by 7:20 pm (Chinese time) on May 25, when they had reached 8700m, the Sherpas were exhausted. Hall was now hallucinating, then not moving.
The Sherpas reported to base camp that he was dead, and his team's base camp manager put out the news.
He was not dead, but he had become badly frostbitten in his fingers and one big toe, and he was extremely confused.
Mazur's party stayed with him until his expedition's Sherpas arrived four hour later. Mazur is a professional mountaineer, and he observed the mountaineering ethnic that anyone found in distress must be helped if possible.
Mazur said that Osborne and Brash also agreed to sacrifice their summit chances: Osborne announced, "I'm not going to leave this guy here." Brash, with an eye on the perfect weather, said "Oh God!" and was depressed, said Mazur, but made no move to join others headed for the top.