원정 개요

First summit party left C3 at 11:00 pm on 17 May (CST): Crampton, Garcia, Milana, Pacey, Tindale, plus Tibetans Deeching Narup and Norbu. At Second Step Milana developed serious cerebral edema, and Crampton, with Jangbu Sherpa, who came stayed in C3, brought him down to C3; Milana and Jangbu stayed in C3 while Crampton went on C2. Tindale turned around at 8400m because route too difficult for him. Garcia, Pacey and the two Tibetans reached the summit at 7:30 am on 18th May; the two members descended to C3, Tibetans to ABC same day.

Second summit party: severe storm with strong wind and heavy snowfall, which kept Crampton pinned down to C2, prevented second summit party from leaving C3 on the night of the 18th to go to the top. They were Brash, Hewson, Mazur, Osborne, Statler, a Tibetan named Aden, and two Sherpas, Jangbu and Dawa. The members abandoned their summit plans.

Dawa Sherpa, who had been Statler's Sherpa, launched his bid to traverse Everest alone at 9:00 pm. (NST) on 21 May, reached the summit at 8:40 am on the 22nd, and was down in Nepal side's base camp at 5:15 pm for an elapsed time of 20 hours, 15 minutes. He had hoped to do it in 18 hours. Nevertheless, he set a speed record for Everest traverses. He used two bottles of oxygen from 8300m on the north side to 8500m on the south side.

Third summit party of Brash, Crampton, Mazur, Osborne and Jangbu left C3 at midnight (CST) of 25/26 May. Crampton turned back at 6:30 am on the 26th at the First Step (8500m) because his oxygen supply becoming exhausted and his hands were becoming cold. The other four continued up until at the "Mushroom Rock" at about 8550m where they found Lincoln Hall, Australian member of 7 Summits Club expedition led by Alexander Abramov, at 7:20 amm without the top of his down suit on his arms, his gloves and cap off, no oxygen equipment, ice axe and backpack: he was sitting up three feet from the edge of the Kangshung Face. He said to them: "I imagine you guys are suprised to see me here." Mazur: "Yeah, yes I am." Hall: "Can you please tell me how I got here?...You guys on this boat too?" They pulled him away from the edge, secured him with rope tied to his harness and an ice axe, gave him oxygen, food, water and put his hat and gloves back on him, but he kept taking them off and Mazur's party had to keep putting them back on. "He was like a three year old child," said Mazur. They radioed for Sherpas from his expedition to come and get up and get him; when the Sherpas arrived at 11:30 am, he was delirious.

Osborne said when they found Hall, "I'm not going to leave this guy here." Brash, the other client in the party, said "Oh God!" he was depressed at the thought of losing his chance for the summit in perfect weather, but he also stayed till the Sherpas came. Now it was too late for the three members and their Sherpa to go for the top, they thought a storm would probably blow up in the early afternoon, and their oxygen supply was running low. Now there could not be another summit bid because the team was running out of oxygen.

Oxygen used by all members from C1 to their high points except Brash, Crampton, Garcia, Milana, Tindale and Wells, who used it in C2 and up; all used it down to C2 or when their supply ran out, except Crampton, whose supply had run out at 7550m but he didn't know it. Sherpas and Tibetans from C2 to their high points.

Sherpas and Tibetans:
Deeching Narup, 20, Pasum Zom village, now Lhasa
Norbu, 1980, Latse
Aden [Yunden?]
Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Everest X2
Dawa, 1970, Loding, Solu