원정 개요

BC at usual site
C2 high in Western cwm, 1/2 hour from Lhotse Face
C3 on Lhotse Face.

Waited at BC for better weather, wasn't bad but was cloudy and windy. Messner, Kammerlander and Mutschlechner up on 14th to C2 with Thomaseth (who went to C2 to film). Mutschlechner down on 15th to BC with tooth problem and others up to use Swiss tents at C3. On 16th Messner and Kammerlander again up in strong wind, risking failure in wind stronger than at camp. Other time Messner started for any summit. In couloir had strong wing at their backs which helped push them up but made descent difficult (but couloir technically easy to climb), almost all of face was hard snow. Team was "perfectly" acclimatized from Makalu climb.


Paoletti - 17 Oct 86

Messner and Kammerlander on way to top left C3 at 8:00 am; at 7:00 am had radioed impossible wind but by 8:00 Ok and got a push from wind on their backs.

Was very cold at summit.
Made no C1.
Leave BC 18 Oct for Lukla flight.

Tent and journalists arrive KTM 20th.


Moreto Paoletti - 16 Oct 86

Lhotse summit reached at 1:45 pm Messner and Kammerlander from C3. Good weather, irregular wind. All are very well. Descending to C2 where will sleep tonight. BC tomorrow.

22 chopper from Lukla to KTM.


Paoletti - 15 Oct 86

C3 - Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas, 7400m.

Today very strong wind; may have to descend to BC if cannot sleep they well, but Mutschlechner had to go down to BC with dental problem.


Paoletti - 14 Oct 86

Messner, Kammerlander and 4 Sherpas.
Arrival at C2 6400m today.
Hope C3 7200-7400m tomorrow and in 3 days from today hope for top.
Weather not very good but snow has fallen off face so avalanche not so dangerous.
All in good health.