원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

First summit bid from C4 at 11:00 pm, but turned around at 8100m because of snow and wind: all members except LeClaire plus 6 Sherpas and back to C4 at 1:30 am. That night left for top at 8:00 pm and 20th all to summit in excellent weather (Morton on top an hour with gloves off) at 7:00 am to 8:50 am. All to C4 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm and slept there. Winkler, who had cycled from Dead Sea below sea level to Jiri (about 1900m) and trekked to BC is diabetic and at summit push time had failed to take his insulin; he seemed to be extremely tired and often almost fell asleep (would have fallen asleep if teammates hadn't kept them awake); it was found that his blood sugar level had gone dangerously high. All went from C4 to C2 on 21st except LeClaire, who went to C3 only.

Oxygen: Sherpas from C4 to top to C4; all members in C3 to top to and in C4 except Morton and Nichols, who used it to C2.

Summit Sherpas:
Phura Kancha, 25, Thami, 1st 8000er, brother of Mingma Chhiri
Mingma Chhiri, 22/7/68, Thami, Everest X7, brother of Phura Kancha
Kami Rita (aka Topke), 17/1/70, Thami, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X9
Chuwang Nima, 20/8/67, Phortse, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X2
Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami, Everest X8, Cho Oyu X5
Tshering Dorje, 20/03/70, Kharikhola, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X3