원정 개요

Never planned to climb Lhotse (permit taken to avoid political problems associated with the American Bass party presence on Everest).

Made no attempt to climb Lhotse. Did not even go to the mountain after ascent of Island Peak but went to Everest BC to join Nepalese Police clean-up campaign and go to S Col if possible. Had like Bass been invited to join the police. Took permit for Lhotse as subterfuge, only way of gaining access to Cwm Received permit for S Face but LO said he'd gotten it changed to W Face (which he had not). Went to Everest BC and Hatfield to C1, then bad weather. Yogendra Thapa told them to wait till Dutch finished and then go back up.