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BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall.

See above much snow and wind. Had to come down from C4 after 2nd Oct to await clear weather and less wind.

1 Sherpa hurt in fall during training and sirdar frostbitten toes which will heal and he willl be able to climb Everest. Kagawa's brain affected by altitude in summiting and being escorted home by another member.


Shrestha, Tourism - 17 Oct 83

14 Oct - 2 members and 1 sirdar reach summit:
Kazuyuki Takahashi
Shigeru Suzuki
Sirdar Pemba Norbu, 33
Health condition of all fine.
No mention regarding more attempts or weather.


K Takahashi - 19 Aug 83

Takahashi, Hanawa and Kaji arrived KTM yesterday. Leave for BC after about 4 days. After Lhotse climb Hanawa comes to KTM for more supplies (winter tents, warmer jackets) for Everest climb while rest of team to spend 3-4 weeks resting at Hotel Everest View. Takahashi does not come to KTM.

25 Nov start into Icefall again for Everest climb. Purpose of expedition is to scale Everest and Lhotse climb is training for Everest, but also to make 1st Japanese ascent of Lhotse.

Lhotse climb will make route from BC to C3 to be followed on Everest climb also, and these camps will have been established. But fixed ropes of Lhotse climb will have been covered by snow by Dec and useless for Everest ascent.

BC doctor leaves expedition at end of Lhotse climb.