원정 개요

BC by helicopter from Kathmandu
C1 at NE Col
C2 at left side of NE Ridge
High point below traverse.

Down to BC on 23rd to rest. All members up on 1 May for summit bid. At C1 Barbier and Orviz stopped because Barbier suddenly had no strength, rested for 1 hour; Barbier not better so both down to BC while other 3 members up to C2 for the night. 2 May up and made biv at 7200m near NE Ridge because storm (snow and wind) came up. At midnight 3 members up again and at 6:00 am 3 May 7800m below traverse. Down now becaus Kazakhs who had bived there, reported traverse covered by very deep snow with wind slab on top and wind slab can avalanche under climbers. Went immediately down and reached BC through/around many crevasses between Col and BC at 2:00 pm.

Now after hearing weather forecast bad weather for one week with snow falling and no chance to reach top terminated the climb.