원정 개요

Long time between occupations C1 and C2 because strong winds and most of route had ice with snow cover.

1st summit bid on 23rd by Bowie and Morawski; failed to find correct route and went too far to right for spring; stopped at about 7800m and returned to C2.

Successful bid by Hamor and Marowski who left C1 with Bowie and Pustelnik about 6:00 am (Chinese time). Bowie to 7800m and back because of very cold toes and back to C2; Pustelnik to 8100m (below rock barrier) and back to C1 because "very sleepy" and had been on top before and trip was for acclimatization for Annapurna I. Summiters on top 3:30 pm (CST) and saw Everest when clouds parted; got on top [late] because Morawski straight across plateau more slowly due to sastrugi (wind blown snow bumps), while Hamor to right as normal. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm.

Fixed 300m of our rope and 600m old rope piece which they cut; fixed only to C2.

Returned to Kathmandu 30 April.

Svaricek arrived at BC with team; on 1 April went half way between BC and ABC, down to BC and left expedition 3 or 4 April with chest infection.