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Canadians (Everest) and NZ Lhotse had BC, C1, C2 and C3 close together. On 8th Oct got to 27,000 ft and then were inside a cloud with storm of snowfall, white-out and wind; endangered by threat of avalanche. 4 men were 2-1/2 hrs from top without oxygen.

Made no other attempt because would have had to go to BC for rest first and nightmare Icefall not fit to go through more than once. Didn't have reserves for more attacks and without oxygen and Sherpas were slower then Canadians. Had been fixing ropes in face for themselves and Canadians, thus were delayed till 8th Oct for summit attempt.

Canadian Everest agent said NZ Lhotse would be one camp ahead but Canadians ignored that.


Ala, Tourism - 11 Oct 82

Abandoned on 10 Oct due bad weather; arrived back to BC 10 Oct. Leave BC 12 Oct. 8200m highest point reached on Friday by expedition; how many reached, not known here. All well.


Sharma, Tourism - 3 Oct 82

1 Oct 8:30 am C4 established at 7750m by Hillary and From. Burgess resting in C3. Strong wind on 1 Oct. 3 Oct all Lhotse in C2.


Sharma, Tourism - 20 Sept 82

Today 9:30 am 6500m pitched C2 by 3 members. Paul Moores slightly unwell stayed at C1. Established C3 within 4-5 days they hope.


Sharma, Tourism - 17 Sept 82

C1 yesterday 6060m 3:00 pm by Peter Hillary, Paul Moores, Adrian Burgess and Fred From. C2 in 4-5 days. All in good health.


Sharma, Tourism - 16 Sept 82

2 members and 2 Sherpas moved into icefall today. Do not know whether they will stay at C1 or return to BC.


Hillary & Burgess - 1 Aug 82

Probably have deposit camp at top of icefall, ABC in mid-Cwm, a camp at beginning of Lhotse face and perhaps another camp mid-face. Maybe 1 or 2 H-A porters to top of Icefall.

Reach BC late Aug, spend perhaps 6 weeks acclimatization trekking, carrying loads to deposit camp, moving up Cwm and putting tent at bottom of face. Then early to mid-Oct make push up face to summit. No oxygen.