원정 개요

Da Polenza, Lhotse - 16 Feb 81

Just under couloir at about 8050m was highest points reached on 2 Feb by Da Polenza above; not to Col but level with Col.

Impossible to go to top because couloir only hard rock instead of ice and snow. Expedition not equipped for this rock: needed 4 or 5 days more to scale this.

15 days high up, they had learned by then and could stay at high altitude no longer; weather worse than expected, more cold and stronger wind than expected.

All have little frostbite and Da Polenza more on little finger right hand which will heal.

Bianchi slipped into crevasse into Icefall 35-40m; very lucky that big rucksack stopped his fall. Near bottom of Icefall when leaving mountain.

No oxygen used climbing or sleeping.

Sherpas worked badly in winter although had same clothing as members.

Very hard and very difficult to climb in winter in Nepal; need better equipment for winter especially.


Rouse - 10 Feb 81

Italians planned to leave BC ?th and should be in KTM 12th. One member went up Japanese ropes to South Col but this not their route. He was expedition's only real climber, Agostino Da Polenza. Expedition got very little above C3 on their own route.

Icefall kept getting blocked by falling blocks. Sherpas didn't carry food to Cwm. Stopped climbing about 2 Feb.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 30 Jan 81

C3 7550m, 28 Jan today. 16 about at BC, pretty cloudy and windy.
Are waiting for weather in C3.


Da Polenza and Santinello - 16 Dec 80

All arrive KTM 14 Dec; leave KTM end this week.
Fly to Lukla and arrive BC for Xmas.
Radio at BC
5 climbers
1 Dr
3 trekkers to BC only
Route = West Face to couloir (not to Col)
4 camps above with C4 at 7900m
5 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa (with Santon on Everest)
Expedition to use oxygen above 8000m. Messner records in winter without it
impossible - have only 16 bottles and will try not to use it.
4 weeks BC to summit. Will use Japanese route in Icefall and Cwm.