원정 개요

BC at village of Tengpo
Biv at 5100m on North Face
High point at North Face to right of main buttress.

Attempted two lines to reach summit, one on 29th and one on 30th but turned around at 5200m via both.


Emails from Will Gadd to Miss Hawley

Oct 16 made biv at 5100m.
Oct 29 we also attempted another lined on Oct 30 but were turned around
by unstable snow around 5200m also.

Simper got very sick and left BC on 26th to recuperate elsewhere.

I made one bivouac on the face around 5100m; after that we made one more attempt and were turned around by poor ice at around the same altitude.

After Scot Simper got sick, Semple and I climbed together. We also did several acclimatization trips in the surrounding peaks while waiting for Scott Semple (too many Scott's) to recover from a bug that slowed him down.

Scott Semple and I got to about 5200m. There are several possible lines on the face, we were climbing to the right of the main buttress up the obvious ice flows (that were snow unfortunately).

Lack of ice, sickness (Scott Simper came down with rare bacteria that normally infects cattle, brucellosis; he got it from eating bad meat in Northern Canada on another trip).

It's steep, big and very technical. We did not have enough ice, time, motivation or equipment on this trip.

We're too lazy to carry oxygen, and the terrain is far too technical for those not trained in high angle climbing to safely ascend on. I also don't believe in oxygen for climbing mountains. Messner proved that it was possible to climb high without it; using it today is like running a 4 minute mile using a bicycle - not the same thing really.