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Warth - Feb 83

Spring 1974 Makalu/Shartse expedition had 4 Sherpas who went above BC.


MP Khanal, MFA - 18 Dec 74

Shartse not officialy climbed by Lenser's expedition. HMG has no official report of it from expedition and LO doubts they were able to do so. Did not have permit for Shartse. Permit was for Lhotse via SE Ridge and Lhotse Shar.


Bach - 30 May 74

Arrived ex-Tumlingtar today alone
Other 3 arrive 6th June in charter

Good success on 23 May summit of Shartse 7500m on way to Lhotse by Diemberger and Warth and came directly down because great difficulty with weather.

7th May 1st attempt by Warth and Nawang Tenzing but during night thunderstorm with 1m snow and had to come down and waited till 15th.

BC at "U" of Barun Glacier at 5300m
C1 - in icefall at 5600m - east of "a" - then west
C2 - 6150m just below 6200m pass
C3 - C4 and C5 on ridge north from pass
C3 - 6500m
C4 - 6600m
C5 - 6900m
C6 was for last night at 7100m before summit attempt on 23rd

1:45 pm reached summit Sharste. No frostbite, no accidents or other problems.

From Shartse to Peak 38 to Lhotse Shar is a new ridge route to Lhotse Shar.

Bach reached C3.

Lenser reached C4 before snow and ice avalanche which completely destroyed C4 after 8 May. Don't know exact date because no one there.

Others now on way to T'tar - 20th Bach left BC
- 25th others left BC

Ridge wss more difficult then expected; combined with weather was tremendous. Last at least 2 weeks by bad weather so no time to go no to Peak 38. Makalu had already given up on 14th.

Cho Polu - 6734m
Southeast of Lhotse

1st ascent - NZ (Hillary)
1954 spring (Norman Hardie)

Pethangtse - 6710m (22,014 ft)
East of Lhotse

1st ascent - 1954 spr - NZ (Hillary)
2nd ascent - 1954 aut - French (Franco)
3rd ascent - 1955 spr - French (Franco)
4th ascent - 1964 spr - Japan (Rikkio U led by Hirostoshi Fukuda)


Nairz - 16 May 74

C6 6700m. Lhotse team message received 8 May said they trying for this in next couple of days, but weather was bad during following days.


MP Khanal, MFA

Advance party making good progress. Established base camp on Barun Glacier on 6 April at 5400m, C1 at 5700m, C1 at 5700m on 8 April and C2 (by Diemberger and Warth) at 6000m on 10 April.

Lenser joined advance party.


Deacock to Cheney - 3 April 74

Lenser was at Tumlingtar yesterday, having flown there from Lukla.

See Nairz letter of 5 April about small, ill-equipped advance party and sick doctor.


Lenser, et al - 15 March 74

Diemberger and Warth leave KTM Monday for Tumlingtar and drop Lenser off at Lukla enroute. Lenser Lukla/T'tar on 24 March.

Will approach Lhotse via 7500m peaks; will do what they can. Diemberger hopes to join Austrian Everest expedition 1978.


Lenser - 7 March 74

Diemberger only man to have 2 8000m 1st ascents.

"We will not go back without any peak." Cho Polu, Pethangtse, etc all around; might try these or 7500m peaks.


Lenser - 6 March 74

Leave next week, go via Barun Glacier. "Will do what is possible to do."
3 Germans and 1 Austrian
2 arrive last week
Lenser today
Diemberger (Austrian) Sun or Monday


Letter from C. P. Bach

Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Warth and me left Tumlingtar on the 18/3. We got enough porters till Sedua, then the troubles began. We had great diffiuculties to get porters till Makalu base camp, they were cheating and difficult to handle. At last we reached our BC the 5-4-74, that is situated 1 day further in the glacier than Makalu BC. Altitude 5500m (in feet 16,500 ft). Today Diemberger and Warth established Camp 1 under the ridge/saddle of Cho Polu/Shartse in 6000m altitude.

Mr Lenser managed to transfer the rest of the equipment from Lukla to Tumlingtar on 31/3. So he will join us in a couple of days here in our base camp. Then the group is together and we hope our expectations will be fulfilled.