한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Amical Alpin Tilicho Expedition 2005

Tilicho · 2005 · 가을 (3) · Germany

원정 개요

On 29 Oct Kaesbauer was on his way up (together with Kieffer and Binder) when Haase met him (on his way down) at 6900m. Haase asked Kaesbauer and others to turn around due to the fact that it was too late as it was 1:15 pm and the wind was picking up. The four of them abseilled down to 6600m. They arrived on bottom of fixed rope and down climbed slope of about 38 degrees. Kaesbauer did not have ice axe and Haase asked him to get his ice axe out of bag. Kaesbauer sat down to do so and started sliding. He slid for about 200m to 6400m. Haase was with him 10 minutes later but Kaesbauer was already dead. Goering who is a doctor, got there at 3 pm and diagnosed possible skull fracture and broken neck. As Haase and team thought it was too dangerous to carry him down they dug him a grave nearby (6400m).

Team stayed at C2 that night but Haase descended to BC on his own to contact Amical. He got there about 7 pm. Rest of team arrived at BC on 30 Oct. They were picked up by helicopter on 1 Nov.

Summiteers left C2 at 6:30 am, summited between 12:00-13:30. The weather was clear with only light winds. Perfect views from top (Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I). Team descended to C2, where they arrived at 4:15 pm.

Carl left BC on 16 Oct (she did not get higher due to bronchitis); she walked
to Jomsom.
Lammer got to 5500m but could not climb higher due to cerebral edema; he left
BC on 18 Oct to walk to Jomsom with 2 Sherpas (17 Oct).
Feneberg got to 6400m and abandoned climb due to fatigue (29/10).
Schweizer got to 6400m but turned back as his vision got blurred (29/10).
Roessler got to 5500m but did not get higher due to fatigue (17/10).

  • 내부 원정 ID5102
  • 원본 EXPIDTILI05301
  • 대장Jochen Haase
  • 루트 (Route)NE Spur-N Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7134m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 14명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jochen Kurt HaaseGermanyLeader성공--
Uwe BinderGermanyClimber---
Claudia CarlGermanyClimber---
Reinhard FenebergGermanyClimber---
Werner Helmut GoeringGermanyExp Doctor성공--
Martin HeerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Josef Alois KaesbauerGermanyClimber--사망
Helen KiefferSwitzerlandClimber---
Peter LammerGermanyClimber---
Guido RoesslerGermanyClimber---
Thomas RohmGermanyClimber성공--
Bernd SchweizerGermanyClimber---
Lhakpa Tshering/Chhiring SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--
Pasang Tshering (Ang Pasang) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

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